Friday, 25 May 2012

Brewery Build #8: Control Box

Our rental property was built before Safety Switches were required so it was a good idea to include an RCD/MCB for each line in - the new system will need to be run from different circuits to ensure that the 16A ceramic-wire fuses do not blow.  Double pole switches were used to provide an added level of protection, since both the controllers only switch the active wire, the switches - located before the controllers - will switch both the active and neutral.  The LED's are simply so that I can have some idea of what is switched on/off at the time, and the reason why I'm using cables instead of GPO's (Power points) is that I had an abundance of left-over computer type cables, which the electric kettle (HERMS), heating elements and pump 12V adapter all use - so it was cheaper and easier to use those, especially in the small control box.

When dealing with 240V there are a number of reasons - legal and safety - why DIY is not recommended, so there is not much more to say, but here are some pictures of my recently-completed Brewery Control Box:

The central gray power-cords are the two lines in.  The white and middle black cord are switched lines out (via the two central switches), for the pump(s) or anything else needed.  On the left is the HLT power, controlled by the TempMate, and on the right is power for the HERMS element, controlled by the PID via the SSR and the to outside black cords on the bottom are direct power for the kettle, switched via the Double Pole Double Throw switches so that only one of those or the HLT/HERMS can be on at any one time..  So, it's actually more simple than it looks at first glance.

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