Matrimony MildBeing a low-gravity beer, the grain bill was smaller than usual.
TYPE: All Grain
Batch Size: 24.00 L
Boil Size: 33.10 L
Estimated OG: 1.035 SG
Estimated Color: 13.7 SRM
Estimated IBU: 25.2 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: Estimated 75.0 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
3.20 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (Thomas Fawcett)
0.36 kg Crystal Malt - (Simpsons) (57.0 SRM)
0.07 kg Roasted Malt (Joe White) (609.0 SRM)
22.00 gm Fuggles [5.60%] (90 min) 14.1 IBU
22.00 gm Goldings (HG 12) [4.50%] (90 min) 11.1 IBU
1.00 gm Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash)
1.00 gm Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) (Mash)
1.50 gm Calcium Carbonate (Chalk) (Mash)
4.00 gm Calcium Sulfate (Gypsum) (Mash)
8.00 gm Calcium Chloride (Mash)
1.00 gm Yeast Nutrient (Boil 10.0 min)
3.60 gm Brewbrite (Polyclar) (Boil 10.0 min)
BrewLab East Midlands 1 (1.6L starter)
Mash Schedule: .Medium Body, HERMS Step Mash
Mash In Add 15.00 L Rest at 55.0 C 10 min
Maltase Rest 63.0 C 35 min
Dextrinization Rest 71.0 C 35 min
Mash Out 78.0 C 10 min
Before crushing the grain, I opened the roller-gap on the mill a little, to 0.88mm (since that is what the feeler-gauge would easily measure) as a compromise between 0.8mm that needed the addition of some rice hulls, and 1.0mm which I was using previously.
The mill jammed several times while crushing the grain, at first I could not work out why, then the second time I found a large stone wedged in the rollers of the mill. The only place the stone could have come from is the base malt, I think Maris Otter is floor-malted so maybe a few stones are a usual thing, but I hope I don't find many more now that I'm getting toward the end of the bag of grain.
Since some grain was spilled each time I had to remove the hopper to check the problem, I added a few (well 8) handfuls of extra grain, most likely this was why the efficiency ended up being about 85-90%. Since the pre-boil gravity indicated the higher efficiency and since the home-grown hops are packed in 30g packs, I simply added a full pack of Golding so the IBU/SG ratio would stay the same.
At the start of the mash, I was careful to only open the valve on the pump no more than half way, combined with the adjusted grain-crush, this allowed the grain-bed to settle.
Once the Maltase Rest was reached, the valve was opened fully, since the grain-bed had already formed, there was no compaction and so recirculation at the full capacity of the pump (without the addition of rice hulls) was possible.
The higher capacity pump (Kaixin pump compared to the little brown solar pump) operating at full capacity allowed for a more responsive grain-bed adjustment time.
The mash-tun dial-thermometer read almost virtually the same temperature as the HERMS even as the temperature was stepped up.
Before I build the new brew-stand, I have been experimenting with the equipment lay-out. With two pumps it means I can fly-sparge but have a single level system (both of which I like):
In previous batches of beer, the DIY-false bottom was deforming a little where it rests on the center-drain stand-off, so I added a washer under the false bottom and above the stand-off to better distribute the weight of the mash (seen here after draining the mash-tun before cleaning):
This was the first beer I had made with the new Control Box:
... so when the kettle was filled and both heating elements turned on, I thought the melting-electrical-plastic smell was because something inside the box was wired incorrectly or some of the tape was melting due to over-heating. However, as it turned out, it was not an issue with the Control Box, but with the plug on the primary (bottom) heating element over-heating and starting to smoke:
Since these elements have a tendency to over-heat, it was not unexpected, just disappointing At least there was no exposed wires shorting out, but I presume everything inside the plug is well melted since the stuff on the outside is. Luckily brewing indoors in the insulated kettle, means that one element works well enough, so the brew day was finished without additional drama - the elements come with a 3 year warranty so (if they have them in stock) I'll swap the element for a new model (which should help fix the problem) next week.
With pump throttled while draining the kettle, the plate chiller was able to operate at maximum efficiency into the fermentor the cooled wort was about 15.5degC, and the kettle drained in about 10mins, the only issue was the large amount of 'waste water' - more than the 50L that I usually collect when draining the kettle more slowly.
The wort was aerated with the aquarium pump and Aeration Tube (see link for pictures/videos) before being tucked up in the fermenting fridge (with the dry hopped Old 'n Brewed) at 20degC: